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“Watchers of the Sky”

       -Story adapted from Alfred Noyes epic verse trilogy “The Torch Bearers”

Hundreds of moons ago, on an island faraway, near Elsinore, lived Tycho Brahe the astronomer. The island was a gift from his benevolent king to do the work he’d dreamt of all his life. There, on his island, for twenty five years. he toiled every night, watching the skies and recording star upon star. Alas, the benevolent king passed on and the new king was poisoned by his courtiers against Tycho. His officers marched onto the island and knocked on his door.

“For twenty five years you’ve been draining the king’s treasury, doing the same thing night after night, with nothing to show for it,” they said. “But I’ve been watching the skies!” said Tycho and then showed them his tables of the stars. Seven hundred of them, each noted in its place with exquisite precision. “And is this all?” they said. “Not all, I hope,” said Tycho, “for I think, before I die, I shall have marked a thousand.” “To what end” said the officers. “Show us its uses”. For these were men who could not understand. “In time to come,” said Tycho Brahe, “long after we are gone, someone someday will discover the meaning of the universe and I would have saved them 25 years of labour so they can begin where I leave off”…..

Centuries later, astronomers used Tycho Brahe’s star charts to find their way to the moon.

People have memories. These memories are at the very heart of stories that bear witness to lives with intangible wisdom and heritage to pass on. But someday, the stories and their story tellers will disappear.

The River Project/Nodi Prokolpo is “A Peoples’ Biography of Rivers” of North East India. It is an attempt to record stories passed down through oral retellings, music, drama, customary rituals, dance and sound. We are guided by story tellers who have been watching the skies for many decades. Like Tycho, they are the true watchers of the sky, unseen and unheard, toiling away at recording valuable histories of their own past, present and future. We are a collaboration of people as diverse as the stars in the sky.

Artists, storytellers, fisherfolk, boatmen, pastoralists, farmers from riverine communities come together to share their collective histories in their own voices. Together we record them down through new forms of story telling. So that in years to come, someone else can begin where they leave off…..

ARCHIVING

RIVERINE COMMUNITIES

STORIES

OUTREACH

© 2021-2023 The River Project, All Rights Reserved

CORE TEAM

VANDANA MENON

I’ve always lived between two worlds. The first one is reality which is complex and at times dark. The second one I inhabit is the rich world of stories. To paraphrase Godard, stories give reality some form. The characters in books, cinema, music, dance and drama proved to be incredible teachers.

Over the past decade and a half, I have been privileged to be able to bring both my worlds together. Through collaborations with film makers, playwrights, dancers, musicians and software engineers, I found a way to tell stories through different mediums instead of limiting myself to one. I was able to give reality and its senselessness some form.

Traveling far and wide, in India and abroad, has been a sublime journey so far. Stories have now brought me here, to the North East and its many rivers. I will always be grateful to the storytellers who open up their hearts and homes for me. They help me find the extraordinary in the ordinary. And so, The River Project adds a new chapter to my story. For, in the end, stories make all of us who we are, not the other way around.

DEBASHISH NANDI

I grew up in a small town called North Lakhimpur in Assam. I moved to Tezpur to do my degree where I met the Brahmaputra River in all its glory. I spent most of my mornings and evenings photographing it. I didn’t understand my obsession of photographing the same river and people over and over again. Gradually, I realised that I was building a relationship with the river. Ever since then I wanted to do something with the river and its people although I didn’t know in what form.

Growing up in Assam meant, there has always been in me a fear: a fear of water and death. Then Morisika: The Story of the Boatman took shape and took me on a journey. A journey which transformed this fear into love. Love for the river and the many stories it holds which have gone unheard. I feel honoured and excited to be a part of The River Project and to be able to tell more stories of our land.

COLLABORATORS

GAURAB TALUKDAR

I’m a documentary filmmaker and birder based in Assam, Northeast India.

I believe in the power of storytelling through the visual medium. I believe that it helps in the conservation of our natural heritage and indigenous knowledge. I would like to tell people the story of our lives through my films. 

I also work on commissioned projects for Roundglass Sustain, Dusty foot Productions and The Habitat Trust on themes involving the environment and indigenous communities.

ARGHADEEP BARUA

I am a storyteller from Assam. Born and raised by the banks of Gadadhar, Gauripur, I was privileged to experience the cultural diversity and harmony of our region from a very young age. Storytelling has been an integral part of our upbringing be it in the form of grandma’s lullabies or baba’s lunchtime or bedtime stories.

The decision to take up storytelling seriously happened once I completed my Masters in Mass Communication and Journalism and joined Greenhub for its year long fellowship. It exposed me to a lot of new ideas and people. One of the key ones being the role of filmmaking in conservation. I had amazing mentors who collectively shaped my storytelling journey. After graduating, I went to Delhi to assist Nitin Das sir in his documentary film, ‘India’s Healing Forest’.

Then, Aamis happened. Aamis helped me grow as an artist and I got an opportunity to work in more films such as Emuthi Puthi, Guwahati Diaries, Mur xekh gaan, etc. With each project my hunger as an artist grew and with it my roles kept changing from actor to writer to cinematographer. But, I do truly feel I am just a humble student who still has a lot to learn.

Along with my quest to learn and unlearn the art of storytelling through films, I kept doing music. Music has always been fuel for my soul. My band Bottle Rockets India helps me in my search to find new melodies.

Currently Gaurab, Seemanta and I are trying to grow a production company called Broadleaf with the aim to produce films and curate mindful journeys in the North East.

I have known Debashish from the Greenhub days and his work always inspired me. So there were no second thoughts about collaborating on Morisika with Vandana and him. It has been a fantastic journey. A journey that gave me a chance to get closer to my family and for which I will be forever grateful to The River Project. It has helped rekindle the child inside.

I have always wanted to erase the gap between fiction and nonfiction in films, and I am still trying to figure it out. With Nodi Prokolpo, I wish to keep my search alive. The spirit of being a fellow voyager will be cherished forever.

DHAN BAHADUR PRADHAN

I grew up in the jungles on char-chaporis that dot the Siang, Dibang and Luit in the upper reaches of Assam. I grew up in a Khuti (cattle camp) and I’m still here. The river and the natural world are a part of me and I am a part of them.

When I was young, it was tradition that at night, we’d gather by the fireside and listen to stories by our elders. So stories have a special place in my heart.

Things are no longer the same. The grasslands, the forests, the fish in the rivers are all disappearing. The river is life giving and that is also changing. Khutis are slowly vanishing. In Upper Assam, I am probably one of the last few pastoralists still living a life from a different time. Through Nodi Prokolpo, I’d like to share what I know of the forests and rivers. I also hope that I can tell the story of my people and our way of life. So that future generations will know that we were once here and this is how we lived.

MENTOR

JEEB DAS

I was born and brought up in Tezpur. I went to school and college right here.

We belong to a fishing community known as the Kaivarttas in Kolibari, which is by the river Brahmaputra. I am in the fishery business. I have done farming and served in tea plantations. I have also been involved in the tourism sector.

From when I was a child, I was fond of the outdoors and wilderness. I am a nature lover and an avid wildlife enthusiast.  I’m interested in the history and folklore of my place. Stories of the bygone era which people have lost touch with. It would be great to revive them for the new generation and open new avenues for going back to our roots.

The Brahmaputra holds a very special place in my heart and I consider myself very fortunate to have lived by its side. For me it’s a living identity, a source of life and abundance.  Over the years a lot has changed. It is no longer the same river. It makes me sad to see the river stripped of it’s grandeur and life. If this continues the Brahmaputra will eventually cease to exist oneday.

It’s time to take a call and save what is left of our life source, to ensure that it flows endlessly for generations to come. It is upto to us to decide whether we live with the river or without it.

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RIVERS

When we look at a river, it might look all the same. On the surface, a steady flow of water and currents beneath, some parts rocky, some sandy. But for the people who live by or on it, see something different. They say, ‘this is my river’. A river that has shaped lives, morphed stories, witnessed history by flowing through different lands,  hearts and minds.

Each video here is a representation of someone’s river.

So what does your river look like? Wouldn’t you also like to share with us?

Storyteller- Dhan Bahadur Pradhan
 
November 2022 to February 2023, Badam Tapu
 
The Dibang, Siang and Luit rivers enter Assam from Arunachal Pradesh and form the Brahmaputra near Dibrugarh district. The Brahmaputra is also known as the braided river. Its many tributaries and the main channel itself repeatedly branch off and merge again creating its signature braided pattern. Dotted all over this mighty river are floating islands and temporary sand banks known as char-chaporis. These char-chaporis are home to many different communities. In the upper reaches of Assam, close to the Arunachal Pradesh border, in between the Dibang, Siang and the Luit are Khutis (cattle camps) of semi nomadic Buffalo and Cow herders. They migrate from Chapori to Chapori as and when the rivers shift their course. These pastoralists are historically an important part of Assam’s cultural and socio-economic heritage.
Storyteller- Nilakanta Das
 
10th May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur
 
On the evening of August 15, 1950, the day India was celebrating its third Independence Day a massive earthquake in Assam triggered long-lasting damage. The following years saw massive floods of greater intensity than usual. While new areas started getting flooded, some of the flood-prone areas started drying up.

Vocals: Mohan Das

21st July 2022, Brahmaputra River

Many often, songs of the river were passed down orally through generations. Paar Kori Diya is one such song passed down from Mohan Das’s mother to him. The song is a melancholic lament of a lover asking the boatman to not cross the treacherous river.

WORK

Storyteller- Dhan Bahadur Pradhan
 
23rd August 2023, Pasighat
 
Mahajans or Mahajanis as they are known in the Khuti system owned several buffalo and cow cattle camps and had a profitable business of dairy. For decades, women worked alongside men in Khutis (cattle camps) in Assam. They stayed in the jungles and by the riverside to look after their livestock. They used to often migrate on foot as far as from Kaziranga to settle on char-chaporis near the Assam-Arunachal border. Today, this way of life is no longer practiced by women born into pastoral families. Khutis have dwindled in number. With an increase in human animal conflict there are only few men who still live in Khutis in Upper Assam.
Vocals- Mohan Das
 
January and February 2022, Tezpur
 
The ghats in Tezpur are busy from dawn till dusk. ‘Daak’ or auctions of fish take place in all shapes and sizes on the many ghats.
 
Mohan Das is a fisherman from Kolibari Village. He has learnt many songs passed down to him orally from his mother. He only sings these songs when he’s out in his boat fishing in the mighty Brahmaputra. 
Storytellers- Dangar Kai & Master Kaka
 
8th February 2023, Badam Tapu
 
Semi domesticated Asiatic Water Buffaloes found only in the North East have formed the backbone of the dairy economy in Assam for centuries. Found in riverine landscapes and jungles of Assam, some of the females of the species are reared by semi nomadic pastoralists. As a practice, they are impregnated by wild ones found in the jungle, thus keeping the bloodline and quality of milk intact. The pastoralists do not intervene in the mating and birthing of these animals.

Storyteller & Boatmaker- Mohan Das

May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village

When the rains come and the river swells, currents become treacherous, the fisherfolk along the banks of the Brahmaputra take pause. Unable to go into the river, they work on their boats, fixing old ones, building new ones.

The river has for centuries been used to navigate especially to parts of Assam where roads do not exist. Boats have been crucial for survival, allowing them to tame a moody river. Boat making therefore is a specialised craft. Boats were always made from trees that were sourced locally. Long hollowed trees were used to construct different kinds of boats used for different purposes. In the past few decades, this skill is slowly disappearing and will soon exist only in memories.

MIGRATION

Storytellers- Prabir Barua & Arghadeep Barua
 
19th February 2022, Matiabagh Palace, Gadadhar River
 
Gauripur, in the westernmost part of Assam close to the Bangladesh border was founded by the royal zamindari Barua family in 1850. A massive earthquake back then, resulted in the Brahmaputra changing its course. Migration along the river was a natural phenomenon based on the socio-economic dependencies on the river. 
 
The very first British documentation of the river and its ecology dates back to the 1890s. The Barua family trained under the patronage of the Cooch Behar Royals documented their history as early as the 1800s. 

DANCE & DRAMA

Storytellers- Bokul Saikia Das & Jeeb Das
 
22nd May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur
 
The first ever National drama festival was held in 1954 by the Indian Academy of Music, Dance & Drama. Bakul Das represented Assam in ‘Sonitkowari’. She won the best actress prize for her performance and the play won the Best Drama. Her enorous talent was compared with that of Nargis.
 
In 2007, the Govt of Assam, as a token of recognition of her outstanding contribution in the field of Art & Culture, granted Bakul Das the Silpi Pension.

Storyteller- Bokul Saikia Das

22nd May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village

Jyoti Prasad Agarwala was a noted Indian playwright, songwriter, poet, writer and filmmaker from Assam. Sonitkowari was his first play written when he was just fourteen years old.

WAR

Storytellers- Bokul Saikia Das & Jeeb Das
 
22nd May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur
 

During World War 2, Tezpur, by the banks of the Brahmaputra in Assam, was the western terminus of an Allied airlift to Kunming, China, over the “hump” of the Himalayas in the China–Burma (Myanmar)–India theatre of war.

The Tezpur air base was built by the British Royal Indian Air Force in 1942.  It was used by the United States Army Air Forces Tenth Air Force as a B-24 Liberator heavy bomber base for the 7th Bombardment Group until India gained independence. 
 
It is now the Tezpur Airport as well as Salonibari Air Force station.
 
Maghor Bihu is a harvest festival celebrated in Assam, which marks the end of harvesting season in the month of Magh. (January–February)
Till 1826, Nagaon was under the Burmese rule. It came under the British rule after the Yandaboo treaty was ratified. Known earlier as Khagorijan, Nagaon was carved out as a separate administrative district unit in the year 1832. In 1839 the British finally settled on the present site of Nagaon town, on the bank of the Kalong River and designated it district headquarters. It was a newly organised village system- hence called “Nagaon”, ‘Na’ meaning new.
 
During the Second World War, anti war protests and rallies spread to Assam as well. In Nagaon, students organised themselves and were successful in mobilising a large community against the Imperialist War.

Storyteller- Bokul Saikia Das

22nd May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur

Gangaram Das, husband to Bokul Saikia Das and father to Jeeb Das was instrumental in shaping the identity of contemporary Kolibari fishing village. He ran a Mohaldari (fishery business) from Kolibari.  A compassionate man, his stories are legendary in the locality. 

During the Indo-China war in 1962, the Chinese army crossed over from Arunachal Pradesh and were at the gates of Tezpur. There was mass panic and the army, government officials evacuated. The gates of the prison were thrown open and the people of Tezpur were told to leave as soon as possible.

Storyteller- Bokul Saikia Das & Jeeb Das

22nd May 2022 and 27th January 2023, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur

In 1959, when the Chinese invaded Tibet, His Holiness The Dalai Lama escaped and made his way through the snowy mountain passes to reach Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh. From there, he and many Tibetan refugees poured in through Tawang and other routes into the Brahmaputra Valley. Shelter was a priority and the North East Frontier Agency (NEFA) officials arranged transport for women, children and the disabled, and built temporary transit camps along the road. The Missamari transit camp in Sonitpur district close to Tezpur became a temporary place of refuge.

LORE

Storyteller- Nilakanta Das

10th May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur
 
Adi Jomol is a religious text written in Kamrup, Assam in the medieval age. The text focuses on myths connected to Shiva.
 

The story of Jamadagni, Parshurama and Renuka transcends borders and gender. This is the version told in the North East. Parshurama Kund in Arunachal Pradesh on the Luit River (Blood red in Assamese) is a religious site for Hindus. It is believed that one can wash their sins away at this site.

MUSIC

Storytellers- Prabir Barua, Bablu Chandra Roy & Arghadeep Barua

Vocals- Maya Rani Roy & Bablu Chandra Roy
Dotara- Bablu Chandra Roy
Sarinda- Dulal Chandra Roy
 
18th February 2022, Gadadhar River, Gauripur
 
Goalpariya Lokogeet- Goalpara is the Western most region of present day Assam spread over the banks of the Brahmaputra river. It’s boundaries have shifted and borders redrawn. For centuries, the folk music of this region had an oral tradition and very little written documentation. It was known as Desi Gaan before 1961. Smt Pratima Barua Pandey, from the Gauripur royal family, identified herself with the Mahouts (Elephant keepers), the Moishals (Buffalo Herders) and others living closest to nature. The songs are rooted in tellings of the people’s relationships with their land, rivers and jungles. She spent years gathering and documenting them, to give voice to the voiceless. Collaborating with Bhupen Hazarika, she popularised over 350 of these songs over the All India Radio under the umbrella banner of Goalpariya Lokogeet. 
 
Bablu Chandra Roy of the Rajbanshi community comes from a long line of musicians closely linked to the Barua family. He and his ancestors before him have been instrumental in keeping this form of music alive until today. 
Vocals- Maya Rani Roy & Bablu Chandra Roy
 
11th July 2022, Gauripur
 

Dotara, literally mean two strings. Although the Dotara in Goalporia Lokgeet has four strings, it is called thus because the four form a pair each of equal pitch.

A unique feature of this instrument is that it is made differently to accompany male or female voices. The male one has lower notes than the female one. The body of the Dotara used to be made of the skin of monitor lizards but now it is made of goat skin. Hard wood has replaced buffalo horn for the plectrum.

Bablu Chandra Roy continues to craft these instruments by hand and also holds workshops for those interested.

Storyteller and Vocals- Mohan Das

21st July 2022, Brahmaputra River

Before the advent of radio and television, companies would hire men who would travel around, more often than not dressed up in costumes and sing songs. These were the very first versions of advertising jingles in this country.

Caution- Cigarette smoking is injurious to health.

Storyteller- Jeeb Das

27th January 2023, Kolibari Fishing Village

Bhupen Hazarika (8th September 1926 to 5th November 2011)

Bhupen Hazarika, musician, journalist, writer, politician, and so much more was born in Sadiya; a small town by the banks of the river Brahmaputra. He documented momentous happenings in the land of his beloved Luit, as he always called this vast river, the Brahmaputra. His songs and writings appealed to the masses.

He was fondly referred to as the ‘Bard of the Brahmaputra’.

Storyteller- Bokul Saikia Das

22nd May 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur

The Indo-China war was an armed conflict between India and China between October & November 1962. The war took place primarily in Arunachal Pradesh then known as the North East Frontier Agency or NEFA in the high Himalayan passes of Se La. & Bomdi La.

The 1962 war resonates in the song Koto Juwanor Mrityu written by Assams favourite bard Bhupen Hazarika.The song speaks of war as a waste it always is. A waste of human lives, the promise of an entire nation being ravaged senselessly. For the people of Assam, and what is now Arunachal Pradesh, this song embodies the reality of a war that was fought at their doorstep.

SEASONS

Vocals- Baa
 
November 2022, Badam Tapu
 
The seasonal shifts of this mighty river are often extreme. Full with strong currents during the monsoon, during the winter and spring seasons the river bed is dry and sandy. The transition from spring into monsoons is marked by a dust storm known as’ Bordoisila’. The word ‘Bordoisila’ comes from the Boro word ‘Bardwi Sikhla’. Legend is that she is a fairy that has the power to control wind and water to create rain, hailstorm and thunder. She comes in the spring season to rejuvenates nature. Flowers in a riot of colours bloom, the dry grasslands and jungles turn a lush green signifying rebirth. She is commemorated by naming the phenomena of the dust storm after her as a symbol of welcoming the monsoons.
 
Khutis  (cattle camps) on char chaporis are separated from the nearby villages by the river. Hence they are isolated and offer very little in terms of entertainment. Singing is an age old tradition still practiced by most of the pastoralists. Often times old songs are sung with lyrics changed to suit the landscape and way of life of these pastoralists. 
 
Ba an elder in the Khuti can be found often wandering around and signing while he passes his day with chores.

BIO DIVERSITY

Storyteller- Jeeb Das

31st January 2022, Kolibari Fishing Village, Tezpur

Sessa and Pakke Tiger Reserve in Arunachal Pradesh connect to Nameri National Park and Kolibari in Assam by the banks of the Brahmaputra. This connection forms an animal corridor. Wildlife often use the Nameri river to cross the border of Arunachal Pradesh and Assam.

27th January 2023
 
Patrick Donald Stracey (1906-1977) Author of ‘Elephant Gold’
 
P.D. Stracey, the second of eleven children, was  born on 30 January 1906 in the East Coast town of Cocanada (now Kakinada), then in the Madras Presidency, His father at the time was stationed there as a forest officer. His school and collegiate years were spent in Bangalore. He passed his IFS exam with high marks and was posted to Assam. His more notable achievements during the early years of his service was the revival, with E P Gee, a great name in wildlife conservation, of the Rhinoceros Sanctuary at Kaziranga. 
 
He spent five years on deputation to the Government of India as Director of Forest Education at the Forest Research Institute, Dehra Dun, in charge of the training of numerous young officers both there and at the Southern Forest Training College, Coimbatore. He also founded the Wildlife Society of India, becoming its first President. After five years in Dehra Dun he took leave to  tour the Continent. On return, he was posted to Shillong as Chief Conservator of Forests, Assam.
 
He was appointed as the first Director of Forestry of the newly-formed state of Nagaland. It was during this period that, besides contributing numerous articles to professional journals dealing with forests and wildlife, he commenced writing the series of books he had long planned Elephant Gold; Reade, Elephant Hunter; Nagaland Nightmare; the authoritative Tigers, one of the World of Animal series; and an unfinished Himalayan Odyssey.
 
After retirement, he settled down in his home town Bangalore and continued his writing work. He passed away in Bangalore at the age of 71.
 
Apart from his work in the field of forestry and wildlife conservation, he is remembered in Assam for his enthusiasm for sports and his social work.